Personal thoughts on charity shops selling vintage

I like charity shops, they raise vital funds for research, palliative care and more

I like charities. They provide much needed services that the public sector can’t or won’t.

I love vintage. It’s green, makes you look unique and I make some money from it.
Just to set the scene I thought I’d write the above.
What I’m not so keen on is charity shops pretending that they’re vintage shops by jumping on the selling vintage bandwagon. I was in rePsycho on Gloucester Road the other week talking to the very elegant and glamorous Diane and checking out the latest offerings from Tim and Andy.
Diane was telling me how a newly opened charity shop just up the road had been slagging vintage shops off by  stating that they were cheaper. This irked me as well.
There are some very good reasons why there is a price difference between charity shops selling vintage and vintage shops. 
Charity shops pay reduced rents and business rates.
Charity shops are staffed by volunteers.
Charity shops don’t have to pay for their stock.
Vintage shops pay commercial rates and rent, have to pay for staff and have to pay for their stock.
Plus vintage shops are staffed by people who know what they’re talking about in terms of designers, era’s, how to care for vintage pieces and much more. We know what we’re talking about. Charity shops won’t get that much vintage given to them either. 
So there I was; a little cross with charity shops whilst being aware that they do such good work and have to raise funds.

Hmmmm.

The Aloha Shirt

 

 Not even tucked in, blazing and bold, here’s the aloha shirt!

The missionaries might have denounced extravagance and nakedness, the craving for vivid colors, tropical textures, and sensual shapes couldn’t be suppressed. Within two centuries a modest workman’s shirt grew into the trademark wear of Hawaii.
But the history of this shirt reflects the growing pains of a nation and the true Hawaiian aloha shirt has become increasingly hard to find.In the late 1920′s and early 1930′s tourists, always looking for exotic souvenirs, fell for a fad of the young islanders, unusual prints. Artists and tailors spotted a serious business. The name “aloha shirt”, registered in 1936, soon labeled a flourishing industry.
To read more about Hawaiian shirts please click to this site HERE.

Marks & Spencer in the 1950s

British fashion history records that Marks & Spencer produced the best ready to wear chain store clothes in the fifties and quadrupled their profits at the same time.  Their clothes were not the least expensive, but they were the best value for money.  The quality became so high in the 1950s that limits were set on production as everyone wanted the affordable stylish Paris inspired 1950s glamour.
You can read the rest of this article from one of my favourite vintage websites; fashion-era.com by clicking HERE.

Debrett’s Guide to the Modern Gentleman

Today the notion of gentlemanly behaviour is not nearly as clear-cut as it once was. The time is right to re-examine and redefine this most mercurial of definitions of masculinity, so Debrett’s has assembled the essential handbook for the modern gentleman.
 
An eclectic range of topics includes: the rules of tailoring; successful seduction; the new chivalry; classic cocktails and martinis; how to fly in style; cuisine to impress; tipping and taxis in far-flung places; and how to dress for the board room, the beach or the golf course. This compendium of masculinity is complemented by rare pearls of wisdom from…
 
 
Enjoy the read! I certainly did.
 
Edwin
 
 

The Inventors of the Dinner Suit

Henry Poole & Co. is a gentleman’s bespoke tailor located at №15 Savile Row in London. The acknowledged ‘Founders of Savile Row’ and creators of the Dinner Suit, the company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specializing in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole.
Click HERE to read the rest of this article on wikipedia.

The Zip Code

The presence or lack of a zip, it’s location and it’s construction materials give the vintage collector a wealth of information with which to date an item of clothing.

The metal zip had been invented in 1891 by W Litcomb Judson of Chicago USA. He patented a clasp locker system of fastening constructed from a series of hooks and eyes with a clasp lock for closing and by 1893 the metal zipper was in sizeable production.


But many 1920s and 1930′s dresses were finished with press studs or buttons because of the unreliability of the zipper mechanism and so most garments were still designed with button fastenings until the 1950s when improvements in zip manufacture were acknowledged. Zippers were usually put in the side seams of dresses, skirts and trousers until the early 50s. Later they were used in the centre back of dresses, skirts and the centre front of trousers.

In vintage terms many enthusiasts believe that a metal zipper in a garment is a good rule of thumb that along with other factors indicates a garment is probably pre 1960. Plastic zippers were available in the 1930s but were not widely used until the 1960s when the YKK Corporation stepped up manufacture in the US. 


By the way YKK stands for Yoshida Kogyo Kabushililaisha, so now you know what the YKK stands for on your zip!

Vintage zipper brands to look out for are the Lightning (maufactured by ICI) in the UK in the 1940s and 50s and the Talon zipper from the USA, again in the 1950s. A word of caution though; the presence of a metal zipper does not guarantee the age and authenticity of a vintage garment. Unscrupulous dealers have been known to insert old recycled metal zippers in to 1960s and 1970s pieces to make them appear to be 50s or earlier.


Hope you enjoyed reading about zippers!

Edwin x

So what about Granny’s fur coat?

Fur. Always a dilemma, fur has come into the spotlight once again being seen on celebrities and the catwalks. Fake fur is everywhere on the high street and the market for real furs is growing for the first time in twenty years or so.


This is not a place for a discussion on the ethics of fur, but rather is aimed at answering some common questions. Fur has been so unwearable for the last decades that few people possess much knowedge about types and values and I am frequently asked by customers about a fur “found in the attic”.
Granny's Fur Coat
So what is Grannys fur coat worth?


Firstly the type of fur dictates value, not every brown fur is mink!! There are a huge variety of furs in use, from the very exotic to the more common. Rabbit or “coney” is probably the least valuable fur, it is quite flat, has little sheen and wears badly. Mink is also very common, it comes in many different colours, from blonde to dark. The value of mink depends on its quality, which varies considerably, the best mink is quite valuable, whereas the poorest retains relatively little value.


Almost as important is the style of garment, the most common item is a “mink stole”. Often these clearly are made from one skin, with head and feet still attatched. These usually have little value (people don’t like to wear things with heads!!). The wider shaped stole, formed to sit over the shoulders is much more desirable. These styles are also found in fox fur, which are usually more valuable than mink, particularly if silver or arctic fox.

Jackets of fur are more desirable than the full length teddy bear coats, which usually flatter no one, as they are more wearable. Coats with interesting details or fur trims are also more sought after.


So back to “Grannys fur coat” well if it is a typical full length “mink” in brown, then it is only going to reach a value equal to its desirability, ie not that much. If however the fur lurking at the back of the wardrobe is unusual, of particularly good quality or in a fantastic style then it could prove quite saleable.


There are many specialist fur dealers, who can give valuations. Fur can be remodelled into an object that can be worn or used if its only real value is sentimental. So firstly find out what type of fur you have (people are often mistaken about fur type – including the original owners), the best resource for this is on the Vintage Fashion Guild . Secondly assess the style; is it wearable? And then assess what it means to you: whatever you decide to do, it doesn’t deserve to sit at the back of the wardrobe!!


One final word of warning, most truly exotic furs (big cats etc) are in fact dyed versions of more common furs. However, the sale of real furs from pretty much all the big cats are banned under international law – and this applies to used fur too!! This means if that leopard coat is real, then unless you have proof that it was manufactured before the laws came into place, and the certificate to prove it, it is illegal to sell it AT ALL!! You can check this out at eBay’s pages HERE.